Peru!
post by allana
Lima 12- 14 april
Flying into Peru was a tad depressing to be honest. We were both still sad to be leaving Mexico, and the sight from the plane as we came into Lima was a brown fog over a polluted ocean and dust covered cars.
The night before in Panama it dawned on us that seeing as how we will be in Peru fairly shortly we should probably start planning some sort of accommodation, or something. After getting knocked back a few times we finally managed to secure a B&B in Miraflores Lima, and even someone to meet us at the airport. The customs/immigration/bag collection process was the simplest and smoothest we’ve ever experienced. It took all of 5 mins to get off the plane and out the door. We jumped out the doors (“1, 2, Peru!”) and into Lima’s autumn sunshine. Our driver to the B&B was a lovely old fella who told us all about the weather and how to keep our bags securely under our feet when in cars so no one smashes the windows to grab them when stopped at a red light.
The night before in Panama it dawned on us that seeing as how we will be in Peru fairly shortly we should probably start planning some sort of accommodation, or something. After getting knocked back a few times we finally managed to secure a B&B in Miraflores Lima, and even someone to meet us at the airport. The customs/immigration/bag collection process was the simplest and smoothest we’ve ever experienced. It took all of 5 mins to get off the plane and out the door. We jumped out the doors (“1, 2, Peru!”) and into Lima’s autumn sunshine. Our driver to the B&B was a lovely old fella who told us all about the weather and how to keep our bags securely under our feet when in cars so no one smashes the windows to grab them when stopped at a red light.
We drove for at least 30 mins to get to our B&B, through fairly unimpressive suburbs. However once we reached the dramatic cliffs that plunged into the pacific below, with the jumbled city skyline stretching along the top, we got our first view of the real Lima.
Our B&B is lovely, with the staff particularly helpful and friendly, even spending 20 mins with us over a map pointing out the best sights and making personal suggestions for the best meal etc. I have to say I’m pretty chuffed with our Spanish. It has improved considerably since we first arrived in Mexico, when Scott could only stammer out the basics and I only spoke Portuguese. Now we are both understanding pretty much everything and can say more or less anything we need to (with the occasional mime/act/dance to get our point across). |
After dumping our bags we headed down the main avenue towards the cliffs, only a few blocks south. To get there we walked through the John F Kennedy Park, and were quickly reminded that we were still in Latin America in the most lovely way-- people dancing. In Latin America all people need is some music and there will be dancing, whether it’s in the street, in a park or on the
beach they just can’t help themselves. And it’s so lovely to watch. I feel we’re really missing out in Australia not being able to grab a partner and dance around whenever we feel like it.
beach they just can’t help themselves. And it’s so lovely to watch. I feel we’re really missing out in Australia not being able to grab a partner and dance around whenever we feel like it.
The park had a great community vibe, what with the dancing
oldies, families running round, and beautiful flower gardens home to dozens of cats. Yes, that’s right. While most cities have the odd street dog Lima has park cats. I’m not talking one or two here and there, but at least one or three cats in every flower bed! The park cats don’t look particularly mangy or scary, in fact they seem quite healthy and some are downright cute (this coming from an adamant dog-person). In my experience a feral cat wouldn’t let you near it with a 10 foot pole, so we were amazed to watch toddlers and kids chasing after them, grabbing handfuls of fur, yanking at tails while trying to pick them up-- and the cats (and parents) just put up with it! Not even one hiss or scratch! The cats actually give that park a unique character, which you can tell the locals love. We found out later that people leave fresh food and water for them every day. Birds were conspicuously absent. |
Just further down from the park we hit those dramatic cliffs, and stumbled into ‘Parque de Amor’ (lovers park, or “makeout park” as our host from the B&B correctly put it). This is definitely the spot for romance, with sweeping views along the coastline out to rolling sets of surf, and paragliders that swoop past you freakishly close. The sunset here is truly beautiful, especially as the fog moves in and the colourful parachutes weave in and out of view (which we did not manage to get any photos of this time!). Locals come here to enjoy the view with their dogs, there were bar tenders practicing their tricks with empty bottles, Peruvian hippies doing slack lining, and a big crowd watching the paragliders take off and land from a grassy area at the top of the cliffs.
Lima has got us. Our initial apprehension from when we first flew in has evaporated and we are really enjoying this big rambling city on top of the ocean. (So far the food has also been awesome!!! Lima is living up to its title of 'food capital of Latin America')
Lima has got us. Our initial apprehension from when we first flew in has evaporated and we are really enjoying this big rambling city on top of the ocean. (So far the food has also been awesome!!! Lima is living up to its title of 'food capital of Latin America')
Lima- sunday 14th april
This morning I tried unsuccessfully to book our 21hr bus trip from Lima to Cusco. The site wouldn’t let me pay online because we had left it too late, so we’d have to make a big trip to the bus station by foot and pay the $78 per ticket in person. Here I was cursing our
‘flying-by-the-seat-of-our-pants’ philosophy when I thought I’d check out the domestic flights, just to see how much more expensive they were. Turns out that was a bloody good idea! Star Peru were having a last minute sale, Lima to Cusco $70!!!!! And only 50 mins travel time rather than 21 hours!!!!!!!! Looks like it’s worthwhile flying by the seat of our pants after all. Happy to say we are booked on an early morning flight tomorrow :)
‘flying-by-the-seat-of-our-pants’ philosophy when I thought I’d check out the domestic flights, just to see how much more expensive they were. Turns out that was a bloody good idea! Star Peru were having a last minute sale, Lima to Cusco $70!!!!! And only 50 mins travel time rather than 21 hours!!!!!!!! Looks like it’s worthwhile flying by the seat of our pants after all. Happy to say we are booked on an early morning flight tomorrow :)
Similar to Mexico City the main avenue in Lima is closed to traffic on Sundays and only open to cyclists, joggers and lycra clad roller bladers. We hired two bikes and had a great morning cruising into the city and back. I wish every city would have no-traffic Sundays. The air is clear, its peaceful and everyone is out enjoying themselves. It fosters a lovely sense of community, even in this city of 8.5 million. |
We spent the rest of today trying to organise a few things for the rest of our month here. We’ve come up with a rough plan… Cusco next and then the Machu Picchu trail, head down to Lake Titicaca and finally finish up in Iquitos with an amazon boat trip.
We decided to celebrate with the national beverage, Pisco Sour.
We decided to celebrate with the national beverage, Pisco Sour.