gokceada island
06/09/13 - 10/09/13
Post by allana
We have arrived in a little bit of paradise on Earth. It was only a 2 hour trip on the big ferry (for $2) and we got to watch the sea gulls wheeling and diving as they flapped alongside us right next to the window. The weather is absolutely perfect, as it has been the whole time we’ve been in Turkey. Gokceada Island is a fertile mountainous place with a green valley running through the middle, full of 100 year old organic olive groves. The Gokceada community is the first in Turkey to be striving towards completely organic produce. Already they produce 20,000 litres of organic olive oil a year, and the fruit you see growing abundantly everywhere is pesticide free. The island is made up of one main town (Merketz) and about 5 other very small Greek villages. Although windswept with craggy cliffs in places, the island is teeming with life. Every tree was in bloom, fruit and vegetables ripe and ready to picked everywhere you looked. We noticed an abundance of bees on the island, these little pollinators were definitely doing their job, while providing the most delicious honeycomb you could ever imagine.
Imbros island (Gokceadas first name) was originally Greek. However during and after WW1 its geographical and military value was recognised due to its close proximity to the Dardanelles. To cut a long story short it was taken by the Turks in the early 20th century and “Turkified” – although the local Greek people were not actively evicted from their homes, their schools were banned and their local representatives sacked (because council members now had to speak Turkish). Turkish farmers were shipped onto the island and life was made hard for the Greeks, to the point where most of them left, to either their homeland or faraway places like Australia. There are few Greek people remaining on the island and their originally thriving villages are now deserted and near derelict. Our new Turkish friend Onder has lived on the island since retirement and tells us that there is never any conflict between the people themselves despite the harsh policies that the Turkish government inflicted in the past. As usual it's the politicians making the trouble, not the people.
We got off the ferry and straight onto a little bus that took us right into town, only 10 minutes away. First impressions of this place are lovely- there are cute little eateries and fruit shops surrounding the main square (which is a tiny roundabout really) where there are just as many tractors slowly plodding through as there are cars. We chucked our bags down in the first hotel we came across- they weren’t expecting visitors –the place was deserted for 20mins before someone came in—then we had a stroll around town. We noticed straight away there are very friendly locals here, all happy to see us there visiting. The first shop we walked into had a lovely collection of ceramics, owned by the friendly Onder. He spoke English so we stayed for a while and had a nice chat with him. Over some Turkish delight he gave us a little bit of history about the place and showed us the history book about the island he was currently reading. But he told us that reading this book made him feel very sad, because in the 50s all these small villages were thriving farming communities, with lots of life, lots of people and very happy times. But now, these villages are all but deserted because the Greeks left so many years ago. They come back for special religious festivals but it is not the same. Onder is originally from Istanbul and has retired here to enjoy the quiet life and run his ceramic shop, more of a hobby than a job. He says he enjoys it because all the visitors to the island inevitably pop in and he gets to meet new people, like us.
After meeting the charming Onder we walked on, the town is very small and it only takes literally 5 mins to walk around. We stopped in at a great little organic food store, selling local honey, jams, preserves, olives and wine. We would love to bring home some of this beautiful Gallipoli Peninsula wine! It would make such a great gift. Anyway these guys in this store were lovely too, and insisted we taste test some of their preserves. By now we already felt so at home here, the locals did such a good job of welcoming us in.
Rather than stay in town for dinner we caught the bus to Kalekoy, one of the little villages on the coast. We walked straight towards the water - there was no beach, but there were awesome climbing rocks stretching along the headland. We could not believe how crystal clear and bright blue the water was, it was very deep but you could see the bottom clear as anything. After exploring on the rocks for a while we jumped in, wishing we had brought along our togs and masks and snorkels.
Rather than stay in town for dinner we caught the bus to Kalekoy, one of the little villages on the coast. We walked straight towards the water - there was no beach, but there were awesome climbing rocks stretching along the headland. We could not believe how crystal clear and bright blue the water was, it was very deep but you could see the bottom clear as anything. After exploring on the rocks for a while we jumped in, wishing we had brought along our togs and masks and snorkels.
The sun went down at around 8pm and we enjoyed the last beams of warmth over dinner at an outdoor restaurant. We ate a selection of delicious mezes and fresh crusty bread overlooking a beautiful rose garden. We tried a traditional Turkish dessert that night called Halva. Scott wasn’t a fan but I loved it, even though I had no idea what it was. I looked it up afterwards and it turns out that Halva is a sweet made from dried tahini paste. You can either eat it dry and crumbly, or mix it up with a cup of milk and bake it so it goes rich and creamy, which is how we tried it. I’m hoping to get my hands on some dried stuff to bring home with me! As we waited for the next bus to arrive to take us back into town we wandered around some small markets that were being set up. Thursday night must be market night, it seemed like everyone in the village was heading down to socialise. We passed the time jumping around on a big trampoline.
windsurfing - adyincik beach
So one of the main reasons we came to this island is to learn a “new skill”, windsurfing. Scott’s windsurf survival story in Mexico (where I had to pay a bunch of pesos for a guy to rescue him on a kayak) has obviously whet his appetite. So bright and early the next day off we trotted to Adyincik, the beach on the other end of the island. It has a very desolate feel to it, the place is surrounded by golden brown hills that stand out beautifully against the blue sky and water. The bay is not too deep and gets solid winds all the time, so perfect for learning. We just rocked up to the first place we saw: Radical Surf (turns out we probably should have shopped around a bit). The guys there were friendly enough but had no English whatsoever, but with the help of google translate on a phone we could piece together a rough understanding of each other. We signed up for 6 hours of lessons over 2 or 3 days. Hopefully the language barrier won’t affect the teaching, we thought (why did we think this? I do not know).
For the next two days we windsurfed with the best of them. Our teacher, Mehmet (who luckily did have some basic English) showed us the ropes and also had a few good laughs at my expense. Scott was great and was tacking and zigzagging all over the place, and I thought I was doing pretty good too but Mehmet was always yelling “Eee-lana, down little! Up little! Just a little! Little little!” No matter what I did it was always just too big for him.
For the next two days we windsurfed with the best of them. Our teacher, Mehmet (who luckily did have some basic English) showed us the ropes and also had a few good laughs at my expense. Scott was great and was tacking and zigzagging all over the place, and I thought I was doing pretty good too but Mehmet was always yelling “Eee-lana, down little! Up little! Just a little! Little little!” No matter what I did it was always just too big for him.
The loveliest day out ever
After two days we felt that we’d had enough of windsurfing at Aydincik beach and wanted to see a bit more of the island. So we hired two of the worlds most squeaky bikes and set off to explore these old Greek villages. We left town and rode along some very long established olive groves for a km or two, stopping to eat grapes and blackberries off the vines that grew along the road. We knew we were in for some hills and needed the extra energy.
At the top of the first significant hill, only about 5km out of town, we stopped for a breather and to take in the impressive views. It was there, on the side of the road, that some movement caught our attention. Out from a pile of dust and rocks a shaggy form emerged, stretched and shook itself off, before a huge grin overtook the long face and it bounded adoringly straight into Scott’s arms!
Turns out we’d stopped at the home of Turkey’s dustiest—and friendliest— dog. He was still just a puppy, all wriggly excitement with big paws he hadn’t grown into yet, and white little baby teeth. He had big expressive eyes that seemed to say, “I’m all yours! I’m excited! Let’s have an adventure!” Of course it was love at first sight. So as we peddled away we weren’t upset at all to see him bounding along after us. We kept thinking he would tire out or get bored, but every time we turned around there he was, this cute little figure running his funny loping run, clouds of dust coming off him every time he took a step. Dusty was the obvious choice for a name.
He ran ahead of us at one point and looked back cheekily. “He wants us to follow him Scott!” I yelled excitedly, “It’s like we’re in a Secret Seven adventure or something!” The fresh air and organic food must have really been getting to me. “We’re The Terrific Two and Dusty!’” I called out, just as my hat flew off got caught in the front tyre and I went flying over the handlebars onto the middle of the road. The timing was perfection. I’m still chuckling about it now as I type, if only Scott had been filming we would be taking home 25 grand from Funniest Home Videos.
As the day wore on we became more and more impressed with little Dusty’s stamina. No matter how high the hill, he was right on our tails the whole time. Even when he just had to chase the goats and sheep away (protecting us I’m sure, from all those menacing ungulates) he would bound back up the hill and never take his eyes off us. The more time we spent with him the more we realised he was one very special dog. Although we’d found him on the street he was as friendly and happy and loving as can be. He even responded to us (most times) when we called him over. He was very smart. He knew exactly where to wait quietly in the shade if we were going indoors, and he was very respectful of the old tortoise crossing the road. When we stopped for lunch at a tiny little family place on the cliffside, he didn’t bother anyone or chase the chickens. He is obviously a very fast learner. And we were smitten. Already I was dreading heading home and having to leave him back at the roadside where we found him. What else could we do? Well… we could bring him home to Australia with us. Secretly we were both already plotting how this could be done.
As the day wore on we became more and more impressed with little Dusty’s stamina. No matter how high the hill, he was right on our tails the whole time. Even when he just had to chase the goats and sheep away (protecting us I’m sure, from all those menacing ungulates) he would bound back up the hill and never take his eyes off us. The more time we spent with him the more we realised he was one very special dog. Although we’d found him on the street he was as friendly and happy and loving as can be. He even responded to us (most times) when we called him over. He was very smart. He knew exactly where to wait quietly in the shade if we were going indoors, and he was very respectful of the old tortoise crossing the road. When we stopped for lunch at a tiny little family place on the cliffside, he didn’t bother anyone or chase the chickens. He is obviously a very fast learner. And we were smitten. Already I was dreading heading home and having to leave him back at the roadside where we found him. What else could we do? Well… we could bring him home to Australia with us. Secretly we were both already plotting how this could be done.
Together we explored the old village of Tapekoy. The sad place was near deserted, we came across one old Greek couple playing backgammon and that was it. The one restaurant still functioning wasn’t able to give us any food. It was sad to see first hand what our friend Onder had described to us. This place with beautiful old stone buildings and such flourishing fruit trees and flowers had almost no one left to love it. Heavy grapes hung from awnings and beautiful figs were left to rot on the trees, we helped ourselves to a few and then went looking for a bigger lunch.
Just outside of town we found this tiny family place on a hill overlooking the sea. Old mate just had a barbie going in the back yard and when we first walked in we weren’t sure if it was an actual restaurant or if we were disturbing the family BBQ. They welcomed us in and we enjoyed lunch and beer, while Scott had fun with some tricky photography.
After a full day exploring the countryside it was time to head home. We couldn’t bear the thought of saying goodbye to Dusty. We rode back to the place where we found him, our hearts heavy ready for goodbyes. Scott had kept a bit of meat from his lunch as a goodbye treat, and to maybe distract him while we tried to make our escape. But there was no escape to be had. Little Dusty was coming all the way back into town with us, we had no choice in the matter. Even when we whizzed down the big hills and lost sight of him a few times, he would always manage to catch up somehow. For a little puppy he had such stamina! We decided the best place for him would be in town, where everyone would fall in love with him and surely he would find a happy home.
After we dropped the bikes back we walked straight to Onder’s ceramic shop, hoping he might have a child who just so happened to be having a birthday and who was desperate for a puppy. Unfortunately this wasn’t the case. Onder said he didn’t know anyone in town who wanted a dog. We sat out the front his shop sipping tea while Dusty sat panting in the shade. Onder asked what we’d thought of the villages, and we said Tapekoy had been very interesting (but a bit sad). He offered to take us to another village in the morning, which we gratefully accepted.
After we dropped the bikes back we walked straight to Onder’s ceramic shop, hoping he might have a child who just so happened to be having a birthday and who was desperate for a puppy. Unfortunately this wasn’t the case. Onder said he didn’t know anyone in town who wanted a dog. We sat out the front his shop sipping tea while Dusty sat panting in the shade. Onder asked what we’d thought of the villages, and we said Tapekoy had been very interesting (but a bit sad). He offered to take us to another village in the morning, which we gratefully accepted.
We went up to the hotel and starting researching how to bring dogs into Australia. Surely its just a case of a few vaccinations right? Wrong! Apparently Turkey is not “DAFF approved”, so we would have to take him to Singapore or somewhere else DAFF approved and jump through 6 months of hoops before being able to even apply to bring him home. Just because the Australian Government is “proud of its enviable animal health record” and scared of a little thing called “rabies”. Little Dusty stayed outside the hotel all night. When we went down for dinner we found him making friends with people sitting out the front of the hotel, so we have high hopes of him becoming the hotels dog!
village tour with onder
We woke up early to pack and have breakfast before Onder picked us up for our visit to Bademli village. Scott went to check on the bus timetable and when he came back Dusty was loyally plodding along behind him. He greeted us with pure delight before curling up happily at Scott’s feet. He is such a good dog he didn’t even beg for food while we ate breakfast. Soon Onder arrived in his car, we jumped in and Dusty came around the side wagging his tail, ready to get in too. We had to say a quick goodbye, and left him there on the road looking at us inquisitively as we drove away.
Onder first took us to Bademli. He is such a lovely man and so interested about the islands history, and concerned yet positive about its future. He said the Greek people and the Turkish people have always lived in peace together here. The only problem between the two countries is their governments. The politicians just need to step back and let the people live as they always have done. The village was quiet, but not desolate like Tapekoy yesterday. The old stone buildings are so beautiful, and the ones that still had people living in them were stunning—amazing vegetable and rose gardens, vines full of flowers trailing over the fences, full of life and colour. But then next door would be long forgotten, the whole roof collapsed and the beautiful stone work crumbling away. Originally none of these houses had electricity or water. Onder showed us the communal laundry/ well and washing area. This supply of water, fresh from the mountain, was enough to supply the whole village. Now there were just a few ducks taking advantage of their private pool underneath a tree that was 460 years old.
Onder first took us to Bademli. He is such a lovely man and so interested about the islands history, and concerned yet positive about its future. He said the Greek people and the Turkish people have always lived in peace together here. The only problem between the two countries is their governments. The politicians just need to step back and let the people live as they always have done. The village was quiet, but not desolate like Tapekoy yesterday. The old stone buildings are so beautiful, and the ones that still had people living in them were stunning—amazing vegetable and rose gardens, vines full of flowers trailing over the fences, full of life and colour. But then next door would be long forgotten, the whole roof collapsed and the beautiful stone work crumbling away. Originally none of these houses had electricity or water. Onder showed us the communal laundry/ well and washing area. This supply of water, fresh from the mountain, was enough to supply the whole village. Now there were just a few ducks taking advantage of their private pool underneath a tree that was 460 years old.
When Onder found out we’d been distracted by Dusty so much yesterday we’d only made it to one village, he laughed and said “ahh! come on then!”. He had closed his shop just to take us around and now he was going to extend his time away even more. We drove to Zeytinli and the first place he showed us was the absolute pride and joy of the village—their new primary school. This village did have a thriving Greek school with 148 students back in 1967. But when the Turkish government decided they wanted the Greek people out, they closed the school down as a way of forcing the parents to leave if they wanted their kids to get an education. Now the newly refurbished and painted school is ready to go, opening next Monday with four students enrolled! It was lovely to see how much this meant to Onder and the old school keeper who showed us around. It represented a new beginning for the village, or promise that their village was not dying but growing. With almost the entire population being elderly retirees the school bought them big hopes for the future.
We stopped for coffee in the islands most famous café. This man’s parents were known throughout Turkey for their famous coffee, and although they passed away years ago now he is running the same little café they opened. Their photos are on the wall, so they can still watch him make the coffee. He bought us out some delicious homemade ice-cream, with a really chewy texture. Then Onder took us off to meet another famous resident of the village, Barbar Hirsto. The lovely old bloke is 90 years old and still running this restaurant with his wife. He asked if we would like some dessert, of course we had to say yes. That’s the lovely thing about these small villages, you will never ever go hungry! The locals love to offer you food, usually sweet food, and make you feel so loved it’s like you are at your Grandmas house. Every single person we met with Onder that day we stopped and said hello to, pleasantries exchanged. This place is so friendly and close knit, even we are thinking of retiring here! Finally Onder realised that the time really had gotten away, he had to go and open his shop. We headed back into town and gave our new friend a big hug goodbye.
We fully expected Dusty to be there waiting for us out the front of the hotel, but he was nowhere in sight. Even when we went out for lunch he did not appear. By the time we were sitting on the bus and heading out of town we finally realised, we’d already made our goodbyes. Hopefully the reason he wasn’t around was because he had already found a new loving family, and they had taken him home for a bath.
No doubt about it Gokceada will stay in our hearts as a real highlight on this trip. For the beautiful island landscapes, quaint villages and especially for the warmth of its people. Although our plans to take Dusty with us have failed, at least we know we’re leaving him in one of the loveliest places on earth.