istanbul (not CONSTANTINOPLE)
August 16 - September 1
post by allana
Only a few days in and we’ve already succumbed to Istanbul’s exotic, cosmopolitan vibe … late nights and late late mornings, enjoying dinners of delectable mezes at 9:30pm at a small sidewalk table, where the street is still buzzing with shoppers and gossipers. There is no point getting up before 10am, because not even the coffee shop opens until 10:30. It is incredible to be in such a city, particularly so after the quiet life in Madagascar.
We’ve found ourselves a perfect little studio apartment smack bang in the middle of what is regarded as the trendy, slightly boho area of the ‘new’ Istanbul (relatively new, all the buildings are still 19th Century). Most of the tourists stay in the Old City, close to the major sights, but we feel we’re getting a taste of the authentic young heart of Istanbul… Hipstanbul… We’re in with the students, the ‘micro roastery’ coffee shop, corner store shop keepers and artsy folk. We love it!
We’ve found ourselves a perfect little studio apartment smack bang in the middle of what is regarded as the trendy, slightly boho area of the ‘new’ Istanbul (relatively new, all the buildings are still 19th Century). Most of the tourists stay in the Old City, close to the major sights, but we feel we’re getting a taste of the authentic young heart of Istanbul… Hipstanbul… We’re in with the students, the ‘micro roastery’ coffee shop, corner store shop keepers and artsy folk. We love it!
Old Turkish men sit smoking shisha out the front of ancient dusty bookstores. In the next door over the beautiful people of Beyolgu are trying on cutting edge fashion from an up and coming designer. We love this mashed up mix of modern and vintage, pop culture and history, East meets West that is uniquely Istanbul. It seems this is another city run by cats. Adored cats take up the best sunny spots in every shop window, becoming the centerpiece of endearing displays, while tough street cats patrol their blocks waiting for a feed from their designated human. The Antiques stores down the street from us offer hours and hours of browsing and poking through dusty knick knacks, bottles, shoes, jewelry, pocket watches, toys, genie lamps and old family portraits. The shop keepers sit in chairs on the street, lazily waving customers inside but never bothering to get up. If someone wants to buy something, they trust the money will be walked over to them.
Whatever weight we lost in Madagascar will no doubt quickly return as every meal here is extravagantly delicious. Olive oil baked eggplant, creamy yogurt dips with still warm bread, and of course as much greasy kebab meat as Scott can handle! Little shops are bursting with colourful Turkish Delight, honey drenched baklava and other pistachio encrusted treats. Their displays are works of sugary art, with so much on offer we haven’t even been able to start.
Delicious street food is abundant and consists of stuffed mussels, corn on the cob, roasted chestnuts and the much loved simit, or sesame covered Turkish bagel... of course even with all this on offer Scott just wanted to eat at FATBURGER.
Out for dinner the other night (yogurt chickpea, garlic and pearl barley soup for me, chicken, walnut and thyme meze for Scott) a friendly local and his mates invited us to join them for a tea, of course we accepted (plus, refusing an offer of tea is highly offensive in Turkey). We had a lovely chat and got given some excellent tips on the best rooftops bars in the city. It also turns out that one of these guys (an Irish fella there for uni) is Eddie Maguire’s nephew! Small world.
Delicious street food is abundant and consists of stuffed mussels, corn on the cob, roasted chestnuts and the much loved simit, or sesame covered Turkish bagel... of course even with all this on offer Scott just wanted to eat at FATBURGER.
Out for dinner the other night (yogurt chickpea, garlic and pearl barley soup for me, chicken, walnut and thyme meze for Scott) a friendly local and his mates invited us to join them for a tea, of course we accepted (plus, refusing an offer of tea is highly offensive in Turkey). We had a lovely chat and got given some excellent tips on the best rooftops bars in the city. It also turns out that one of these guys (an Irish fella there for uni) is Eddie Maguire’s nephew! Small world.
There’s one little lane hidden in a maze off Istikal St where we like to do as the locals do and sip tea while we enjoy a game of backgammon under a canopy of leafy grapevines. The first afternoon we did this the friendly yet intrusive wait staff kept hovering around our table to watch us play, shaking their heads at us and making loud ‘tsk tsk’ noises whenever we made a move on the board they didn’t agree with (pretty much every move). Hopefully by the time we are ready to leave Turkey we can come back here and wow them with our superb backgammon skills.
We’ve given ourselves two whole weeks in this marvelous city, and we’ll definitely need them. Not just to take in all Istanbul has to offer, but also so we have time to get a few other things organised – our visas for India, sending our dive gear home, voting at the Embassy, doing our tax returns… But we’re both happy for the excuse to stay longer. This vibrant city with all its nooks and crannies to explore is fascinating and exciting, and in our little studio apt we've made ourselves a comfortable home base.