Machu picchu
post by scott
Despite the 430am alarm and aching muscles it wasn't too hard to get up today! We excitedly bustled through the dark streets of Aguas Calientes to the bus station and took our position in the already formed queue - looks like a lot of people have the same idea to get up there on the first bus! We had been given the option of walking up the 1500 or so steps (instead of catching the bus) but there was already a full day of walking up stairs and mountains ahead so thankfully we saved some steam by getting the bus up.
Guess who was waiting at the top in the predawn light?? That bloody dog Infinity had followed us the whole previous day and then trudged up the mountain - by the time we got in he was already chowing down a hearty breakfast of tourist scraps!
Diego hustled us to the front end of the queue and right on 6am we were in the gate and powering straight up to the top lookout / watchhouse. His tactics were justified because we had a stunning panoramic view in the early morning light unobstructed by the thousands of ants which would dot the landscape within a few hours.
Guess who was waiting at the top in the predawn light?? That bloody dog Infinity had followed us the whole previous day and then trudged up the mountain - by the time we got in he was already chowing down a hearty breakfast of tourist scraps!
Diego hustled us to the front end of the queue and right on 6am we were in the gate and powering straight up to the top lookout / watchhouse. His tactics were justified because we had a stunning panoramic view in the early morning light unobstructed by the thousands of ants which would dot the landscape within a few hours.
We sat on the rocks and had a moment absorbing the beautiful spectacle with pensive llamas munching on the grass beside us. The rocky mountains protruded up towards the sky at ridiculously acute angles. The sun, still obscured by these lofty peaks, nevertheless let us know its presence with a gentle light. Fog slowly drifted over the ridge. A whippersnipper whirred in the distance. How's
the serenity.
(Apparently the llamas were brought up to keep the grass trim without needing to use loud mowers)
the serenity.
(Apparently the llamas were brought up to keep the grass trim without needing to use loud mowers)
After snapping a few more landscape shots (should've bought a wide angle lens!) and harrassing the llamas a bit we were whisked away by our guide Diego who was eager to spill a bit of knowledge on us. Here's some facts:
-Machu Picchu was always secondary in importance to the Incas behind Cusco (which is of course the cosmic umbilical)
-The area was discovered and rediscovered. On one such rediscovery the explorer was met by a family of farmers living in the watchouse. Apparently they were rather nonplussed about their amazing real estate and the "old rocks" which were scattered around.
-Virgins were kept in a house next to the Inca (king) for sacrafice until age 18
- if they made it to 18 they would become one of the Incas wives.
- if they were needed for a sacrafice they would be doped up to their eyeballs and then someone would make a slice down the abdomen (presumably through the diaphragm) and rip their heart out with bare hands! Im no cardiothoracic surgeon but I reckon this deserves kudos because hearts are pretty slippery devils and I'm pretty sure they are attached to various great vessels!
-Machu Picchu was always secondary in importance to the Incas behind Cusco (which is of course the cosmic umbilical)
-The area was discovered and rediscovered. On one such rediscovery the explorer was met by a family of farmers living in the watchouse. Apparently they were rather nonplussed about their amazing real estate and the "old rocks" which were scattered around.
-Virgins were kept in a house next to the Inca (king) for sacrafice until age 18
- if they made it to 18 they would become one of the Incas wives.
- if they were needed for a sacrafice they would be doped up to their eyeballs and then someone would make a slice down the abdomen (presumably through the diaphragm) and rip their heart out with bare hands! Im no cardiothoracic surgeon but I reckon this deserves kudos because hearts are pretty slippery devils and I'm pretty sure they are attached to various great vessels!
Huanapicchu
This mountain is the prime real estate overlooking Machu Picchu which was used by Incas as a watchtower. It is an incredibly steep rocky mountain and we were surprised to learn there were also rock buildings, terraces and steps built at its top, sometimes verging on the sheer cliff faces.
We had booked (yes you have to book to climb it) the second climb at 10am and by this time the fog had cleared up to give a remarkable panoramic view from the top. From here you can look down at Machu Picchu, across to the Sun Gate (Inca trail entrance) and around the surrounding valleys. We could even see down to the bridge across the river where our canine friend joined us a day and hundreds of vertical metres prior!
The hour of gruelling rock steps to get up there was definately a challenge though - the steps often no more than 10cm, barely enough to get a toe on! Those Incas must have been tiny guys! There were however a few octogenerians there to keep us grounded - a David Suzuki doppelganger and a 75 year old German who asked us casually "why are you sweating?"
We had booked (yes you have to book to climb it) the second climb at 10am and by this time the fog had cleared up to give a remarkable panoramic view from the top. From here you can look down at Machu Picchu, across to the Sun Gate (Inca trail entrance) and around the surrounding valleys. We could even see down to the bridge across the river where our canine friend joined us a day and hundreds of vertical metres prior!
The hour of gruelling rock steps to get up there was definately a challenge though - the steps often no more than 10cm, barely enough to get a toe on! Those Incas must have been tiny guys! There were however a few octogenerians there to keep us grounded - a David Suzuki doppelganger and a 75 year old German who asked us casually "why are you sweating?"
Inca bridge
It's difficult to see but in the picture below but the green line along the cliff face is a narrow ridge carved out by the Incas as a pathway to Machu Picchu. Unfortunately it's hard to capture the scale of it in a still photo but it's probably less than a metre wide and the cliff drops down vertically about a hundred metres further than shown! I suppose natural selection would weed out those with less than perfect balance. The path culminates in a stone bridge at the far left (which is also difficult to appreciate in this shot).
Sun gateThe sun gate sits above and to the east of Machu Picchu about an hours walk away in the opposite direction from Huanapicchu (you can see it in the background of this photo - right). As well as being a "gate" for the rising sun at certain times of the year, it marks the entrance to Machu Picchu from the Inca trail, where hikers now stumble over the ridge and see everything for the first time.
After four days of hiking and a full day up and down stairs I was genuinely out of steam by the time we started up towards the sun gate. The absence of water anywhere within the gates didn't help the situation, so I pushed on up to the top with clammy skin and a spinning head. Allana as usual was good as gold, bounding up the stairs with still-fresh legs. Sitting for a breather at the sun gate we were again shown how its down by the oldies!! A group of trekkers all above 50 years came up and over the hill to take in the spectacle. Among them was a 5 ft kyphotic Chinese American lady composed entirely of skin and bones, leaning on two hiking poles which appeared oversized for her small frame. It was a lovely moment as she came through the gate and stood speechless looking at the sun setting on Machu Picchu. |
Down about a million stairs back to the entry gate and on the bus back to Aguas Calientes. We shared a few Cusquenas (beers) at the train station and wearily reflected on the trip before getting on for the ride back to Cusco. What a huge day!
|