Day 4
Western serengeti
(Happy birthday nel!!!!!!!!!!!!)
post by scott
We were feeling lucky today. Perhaps because it was Nelson’s birthday we would see something special! Louis took us straight down to the river again to “wait for the action” as he liked to say. On the way it was very promising – wildebeest were making a beeline down towards the river in huge numbers. Their cries which we had heard all night were now coming together in a huge chorus which reached a crescendo by the river edge where they were all milling around. It is difficult to describe the noise they make in words but Allana describes it as a cross between a cow’s moo and a giant frog’s throaty croak.
By the side of the road we saw an unfortunate infant wildebeest whose cause of death was unknown but was now providing breakfast for about 8 vultures and one evil looking stork. They had opened up the belly and were pulling out long strands of intestine, all the while fighting amongst themselves for the prime cuts. A vulture trying to intimidate their opponent is actually hilarious to watch because they bounce along the ground with feet together and wings widely outstretched, basically charging at the other. Later that day we saw the remains of the wildebeest looking like an empty sack of skin.
Down by the river there were already two cars set up with large telescopic cameras pointed at the water where crocs were gearing up for the days events. At this point the herds of wildebeest had not yet worked up the courage to attempt a crossing so we sat and waited. Half an hour passed. We drove a little way down the river where nothing was happening so came back to the original spot where you could just make out some movement but further upriver. Louis left the other cars and drove further up to an overlooking ledge just big enough for one car but which provided the perfect view to see the wildebeest crashing through the water in a mad dash for safety on the other side! Someone had obviously worked up the courage to cross at this point and now everyone was following frantically in the herd “safety in numbers” mentality. It was incredible to watch. We could sense their inherent fear of the water (and what lies beneath) as they jumped maniacally through the knee deep stretch of about 10 metres before clambering quickly up the opposing muddy bank. Hundreds and hundreds passed through with few pauses between traffic – it was like someone had flicked a switch and now the floodgates were open. The tension was high. We could see some babies almost washed away with the current of the water but managing to scrape their way back up the bank. To be swept downstream would be less than ideal because about 50 metres away were the group of 5-6 crocodiles we had seen at the original spot, as well as a group of 10 or so hippo watching on with amusement.
croc attack 1
(see video section in menu)
There seemed to be an endless supply of animals waiting to cross, because half an hour or so had passed and there was no let up in the mad scramble. At this point we could see one of the crocodiles had twigged onto what was happening and was making his way up towards us the crossing. He made no attempt to hide himself underwater, instead cruising up slowly to within metres of his prey showing off his full 4-5m of length. We turned on the video and waited with baited breath! By this point we were standing on the roof of the car and had an ideal spot, but unfortunately for the other two cars who followed us up there was a tree blocking their view from behind us. We thanked Louis and our lucky stars to be able to see this unfold. The crocodile wasn’t afraid of getting trampled. He would lunge right into the beating hooves trying to grab something, but coming up unsuccessful the first few times. After each attempt he would go back and regroup before again lunging mouth wide open into the stampeding wildebeest, all spraying water and frantic flailing legs! Every time a baby crossed we would hold our breath and cheer them on if they made a lucky escape, but finally came one baby who was no more than 4 months according to Louis. This would have been his first river crossing and he obviously was a bit out of his depth, because instead of moving fast and with the pack he stopped by himself in the middle of the river. It was obvious he was a goner as the croc moved up slowly and dragged him underwater.
Our adrenaline was flowing freely and we had huge smiles on our dials. Who would have imagined we would be lucky enough to see this amazing spectacle! We were wishing desperately that our families could have been there to share the experience with as there were still 5 spare seats in the spacious Landcruiser.
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The crossing finally slowed up and stopped but there were still thousands of wildebeest waiting on our side. We went back to our original spot which was now deserted and watched multiple times as they would come down to the water to drink or think about crossing. Although they seem to know that the river is dangerous for them, their senses must not be very sharp because we would see wildebeest walk right up to crocodiles sunbathing on the bank. Only when their hoof was about to tread on the crocs head would they get an enormous fright and bolt back up to safety. Luckily for them the crocodiles seemed to have no interest in launching an attack from land. (See video: "whoops")
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croc attack 2We drove around a little more and arrived back where the first croc attack had been, just in time to turn the camera on and record another one! The wildebeest were crossing in the same area and this time the crocodile grabbed an adult right around the midsection, forcing him downriver. The poor wildebeest was crying out and struggling in desperation with just his head above water, but the croc was too powerful, finally forcing him under. The nearby hippopotamus were no more than twenty metres away and when they saw what was happening started to make a huge racket – noises which sounded to us like laughing! You can hear it clearly on the video “Croc Attack 2”.
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croc attack 3Again we went back downriver to the original vantage point and had lunch in the car, all the while watching the wildebeest coming down to drink and more often than not darting back upon sight of crocs. There were also two old carcasses floating around in the water which would not have helped their confidence. Some brave individuals went across all by themselves, including one baby who was too quick for the snapping jaws. Our third and final fatality came during a mass crossing when two crocs teamed up to grab a baby. The “Croc Attack 3” video shows this and is accompanied by some fantastic commentary by Allana. It also shows a near miss where a baby wildebeest actually runs onto and then jumps off the back of a marauding crocodile to safety!!
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back to the plains
It had been an incredible morning. Most of the wildebeest had gotten to the north bank by afternoon so we left the river happy and went in search of other animals. We found the biggest family of elephants yet (numbering about 25) which included the largest bull we had seen reaching up with his long trunk to pull down leaves from a tree. Louis had kept another ace up his sleeve and drove us over the river to some open grassland past giraffe, gazelle and secretary birds to look for a cheetah which had been spotted earlier in the day. Almost immediately Louis spotted her curled up relaxing under the shade of an Acacia! As we approached in the Toyota I was expecting her to bolt but to our surprise this wild animal watched on as we reversed slowly to within 5 metres! The worlds fastest mammal watched us with caution but didn’t move from her little oasis of shade, allowing Allana to get some great photos. There was a small Thompsons gazelle walking nonchalantly about a hundred metres away and we hoped that it might provide for a high speed chase, but Ms. Cheetah was obviously feeling too relaxed to care.
We ended the day of safari beside a man-made dam which was now providing welcome predator free relief for thousands of brave wildebeest who had crossed the Grumeti. Here they waded in freely to drink and splash around in the water. Their only concern was a huge dark male who was trying to mount all the drinking females and chase away any male contenders from the water. After such a stressful morning it was nice to see them find a safe place to graze and drink!
Back at camp all the staff were keen to hear about the day and see our videos so we set up the around the fire and had a few beers while watching the action again! (and then a few more times).