“Our ape relatives enrich our lives on this wonderful little planet. Their existence acts as a constant reminder to us that we humans are part of nature and not above it, that we are risen apes and not fallen angels” – Desmond Morris
First gorilla trek: Volcanoes national park rwanda
post by allana
We were up at 5am and rearing to go. I hadn’t slept a wink all night, it was as if I was 7 years old again and waiting for Santa on Christmas Eve. It took 45 mins to drive down the mountain, through the town and into the Volcanoes National Park headquarters. We milled around and I felt nervous, not quite believing this was finally happening. A local dance group arrived to entertain all the tourists and their huge smiles and energy were very welcome in the cold morning air, somehow they managed to heighten the excited atmosphere even more!
Finally, after an hour of increasing anticipation waiting for the guides, we were pulled over by calm and collected William (the complete opposite of me, feeling uncontrolled emotions). “Well, I have some good news for you two. Your group is one of the largest groups with 25 individuals, including lots of babies. It is a great group to track. Also, it will just be you two.” My jaw almost hit the floor, I could not believe it—never in my wildest dreams did I imagine Scott and I could ever have the fortune to go tracking alone, especially because gorilla permits usually sell out months in advance. Giddy from delight we were then introduced to our friendly guide for the trek, Eugene. We all piled back into the troopie and set off for the starting point of our hike.
The Virunga Mountains are made up of 6 extinct volcanoes and provide critically important mountain forest habitat for last remaining stronghold of eastern mountain gorilla. The Virungas stretch along the border of three countries; Rwanda, the Congo and Uganda. Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda is defined by a simple rock wall stretching all the way to both the Ugandan and Congolese sides. The farmland goes right up to the wall, with no buffer zone whatsoever. It was here we met up with our full entourage, 4 fully armed national soldiers with AK47s who were to accompany us for our safety against any wayward “buffalo”. We accepted this without a word, but it was on both our minds that our closeness to the border of the troublesome Congo (a few mere kilometres away) was most likely the reason for the firepower. We found out later that there is a line of armed guards stretching the entire way along the border right through the middle of the park.
Finally, after an hour of increasing anticipation waiting for the guides, we were pulled over by calm and collected William (the complete opposite of me, feeling uncontrolled emotions). “Well, I have some good news for you two. Your group is one of the largest groups with 25 individuals, including lots of babies. It is a great group to track. Also, it will just be you two.” My jaw almost hit the floor, I could not believe it—never in my wildest dreams did I imagine Scott and I could ever have the fortune to go tracking alone, especially because gorilla permits usually sell out months in advance. Giddy from delight we were then introduced to our friendly guide for the trek, Eugene. We all piled back into the troopie and set off for the starting point of our hike.
The Virunga Mountains are made up of 6 extinct volcanoes and provide critically important mountain forest habitat for last remaining stronghold of eastern mountain gorilla. The Virungas stretch along the border of three countries; Rwanda, the Congo and Uganda. Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda is defined by a simple rock wall stretching all the way to both the Ugandan and Congolese sides. The farmland goes right up to the wall, with no buffer zone whatsoever. It was here we met up with our full entourage, 4 fully armed national soldiers with AK47s who were to accompany us for our safety against any wayward “buffalo”. We accepted this without a word, but it was on both our minds that our closeness to the border of the troublesome Congo (a few mere kilometres away) was most likely the reason for the firepower. We found out later that there is a line of armed guards stretching the entire way along the border right through the middle of the park.
Where we entered onto the lower slopes of Karisimbi mountain (the highest in the chain) was all bamboo forest, the much denser ‘gorillas-in-the-mist’ habitat being further up at higher altitudes. We’d been told gorilla tracking could take 7 hours depending on the groups’ whereabouts, so we were amazed when after only 30 mins Eugene heard from the trackers via radio that we were almost there. At this time of year the gorillas spend most of their time in the lower bamboo forest, enjoying the crunchy new bamboo shoots.
We left our backpack and extra belongings 200m from where the family were resting, and prepared to quietly move in closer. We could just hear the crunching of vegetation and contented munching noises when Scott had to race back to grab the spare camera battery. I watched him go, then when I turned around again a furry little black figure tumbled right onto my path- a juvenile gorilla! Out of nowhere there she was, the adorable dark face stared up at me for a few seconds before scampering off into the bushes. Suddenly I realised we were surrounded by gorillas, solitary dark figures were hunched everywhere in the shadows of the bamboo thickets munching away.
The trackers first led us to a clearing where we had a good view of a mother and her juvenile of about 2 years old. We sat down and watched with baited breath as she swung her baby onto her back and walked right past us—less than a metre away! She settled again not far from us and we were able to closely observe the baby feeding. Both were calm and relaxed, the two of them almost in their own world, only occasionally glancing up at us with little interest. Scott took the first photo and it turned out to be my most favourite, a beautiful portrait of mother and baby.
We left our backpack and extra belongings 200m from where the family were resting, and prepared to quietly move in closer. We could just hear the crunching of vegetation and contented munching noises when Scott had to race back to grab the spare camera battery. I watched him go, then when I turned around again a furry little black figure tumbled right onto my path- a juvenile gorilla! Out of nowhere there she was, the adorable dark face stared up at me for a few seconds before scampering off into the bushes. Suddenly I realised we were surrounded by gorillas, solitary dark figures were hunched everywhere in the shadows of the bamboo thickets munching away.
The trackers first led us to a clearing where we had a good view of a mother and her juvenile of about 2 years old. We sat down and watched with baited breath as she swung her baby onto her back and walked right past us—less than a metre away! She settled again not far from us and we were able to closely observe the baby feeding. Both were calm and relaxed, the two of them almost in their own world, only occasionally glancing up at us with little interest. Scott took the first photo and it turned out to be my most favourite, a beautiful portrait of mother and baby.
I could have stayed there and just watched these two all day, but the trackers wanted us to move down further into the group to see the silverback. He was partially obscured by a dense thicket of bamboo, so we sat down about 5 metres away from him to quietly watch. Without any warning suddenly he was up and on his way over! The silverback Agusha-- purposely striding directly our way and he was HUGE!!!
My heart stopped when he first emerged—we knew he would be big but until you see him in the flesh you cannot properly appreciate the massive bulk of his powerful shoulders, expansive, muscular back and enormous head and jaw. We both gave a start as he came towards us, the trackers said “just be still, just be still” but we were freaking out so much that now this seems like a dream. |
I was sitting half a metre in front, Scott directly behind. Agusha brushed past me and thinking he would continue on past us I turned around, only to watch him suddenly halt directly next to Scott. He was standing rigidly, giving a powerful stance of dominance over the cowering Scott (who had a wide-eyed grin frozen on his face! I could almost read his racing mind- "No eye contact, no eye contact!!!") Agusha then leaned his massive shoulder right into Scott's side, letting Scott appreciate his 300 kilos of powerful bulk. Slowly and deliberately he turned his humongous head and breathed a long slow breath right into Scotts face. Point made, he turned and kept walking up towards his family, pleased in the knowledge that this new skinny white male had been put in his place.
Hearts hammering we faced each other, a bit shaky and almost speechless! We squeezed each other’s hands tightly and with huge grins followed the trackers up to the family, sitting down again to quietly take it all in and wait for our hearts to stop racing.
Hearts hammering we faced each other, a bit shaky and almost speechless! We squeezed each other’s hands tightly and with huge grins followed the trackers up to the family, sitting down again to quietly take it all in and wait for our hearts to stop racing.
The silverback was a wonderful father, obviously enjoying having his juveniles and babies climb and frolic all over him. Even when he gets tired of the game, he puts up with it good naturedly. When the sun broke through the clouds and emerged through the bamboo we could make out every wrinkle in his leathery face, the brown eyes bright in the sun, taking the world in. He was serious and authoritative yet intensely serene. They were the picture of a happy family, mum, dad, aunties and the kids, content in each other’s company. Nestled among the bamboo thicket we were so privileged to witness these moments of normal family intimacy and tenderness.
One adult female gorilla in particular had a tendency to lay back and contemplate the swaying tops of the bamboo as the family waited for the silverback to guide their next movements. She also keenly watched small birds, her eyes darting back and forth as they followed the quick fluttering movements among the trees. The family lay around just the way we do, arms crossed behind the head, laying back casually on the forest floor with feet flat on the ground and legs bent at the knees. The silverback sat upright with his arms crossed, head down resting on his big chest, eyelids fluttering as he drifted in and out of sleep.
One adult female gorilla in particular had a tendency to lay back and contemplate the swaying tops of the bamboo as the family waited for the silverback to guide their next movements. She also keenly watched small birds, her eyes darting back and forth as they followed the quick fluttering movements among the trees. The family lay around just the way we do, arms crossed behind the head, laying back casually on the forest floor with feet flat on the ground and legs bent at the knees. The silverback sat upright with his arms crossed, head down resting on his big chest, eyelids fluttering as he drifted in and out of sleep.
We had already been spoiled so much, what with the mother and baby, juveniles playing and of course the up close and personal dominance display by Agusha. But the family were willing to let us have even one more intimate experience. One of the females had been presenting for the silverback since our arrival, yet he hadn’t been interested. We were only 5 meters from them when all of a sudden Agusha decided to accept his females advances. He mounted her and they began making gorilla love. Immediately all my scientific training left me and I felt intensely uncomfortable witnessing this intimate act; had I been a primatologist I don’t know how I would have been able to take proper field notes. Scott was filming the whole thing and I felt compelled to whisper, “Scott stop it! Give them privacy!” (Which sounded hilarious when we watched it back). Our trackers and guide later informed us that it was very unusual to witness gorillas mating. Eugene visits the gorillas every single day and it had been two years since even he had seen this happening.
|
We got the clear impression that in this well managed national park (in the Rwandan side at least) their life is peaceful, as it should be. These gorillas basically have armed private security from the moment they wake up to the moment they go to sleep, with the trackers only leaving once everyone in the family is comfortably bedded down for the night. The trackers then make sure they arrive in time the next day as they start to wake up. If anyone is injured a gorilla Dr is only a radio call away. Some conservationists might see this as far too invasive (Dian Fossey would certainly not be impressed), but considering this is the last population of eastern mountain gorillas on earth and with only 780 individuals left, I don’t think an on-call doctor is overdoing it. The peaceful existence we witnessed today however is obviously not always the case. This family in particular, as we were to find out, had been through a turbulent recent history.
|
Agushas story
‘Agusha’ means ‘Special’. Eugene explained this to us when we first met him prior to our hike. Of course we asked straight away why the group were called Special, but with a grin and a wink he chuckled; “I’ll explain afterwards, on the walk back”. We realise now he did this so as not to colour our judgement of the silverback, and I guess we’re glad he did considering Scott’s up close and personal brush with gorilla breath!
The story begins back when this gorilla family was just called ‘Group 13’, a plain research name. The group consisted of a silverback, a blackback (sub-adult male just a few years off becoming a silverback) two females and two babies. The group lived a peaceful existence until one day the old silverback passed away of natural causes. With no other silverback to take his place as leader the young blackback had to step up, which was an unusual situation. Despite his lack of experience and youth the blackback led his family as best he could, which lasted peacefully for a few months. Then, one afternoon at 2pm in 2003 (Eugene remembers clearly because he was there tracking at the time) an unknown sliverback came charging into their group, scaring the hell out of everyone. The blackback fought valiantly for half an hour to protect his family, but the new silverback was too fierce, too aggressive and had too much fighting experience. The young blackback was driven off, left to his own devices with extensive injuries and he disappeared without a trace.
Not even the trackers had seen this new silverback before and it was obvious he was completely unhabituated to humans—this led everyone to believe that he was one of the very last truly wild gorillas, and must have come across from the Congo. He wasted no time in mating with the females and sadly (but predictably) over the course of a few days killed both the babies. He then took the distraught family on the war path: They travelled to Uganda’s side where he fought a silverback there and stole some of his females, then they travelled to the Congo’s side where he fought more silverbacks and stole a few more females, then he came back to Rwanda and fought again with another habituated group before finally settling into his own territory with his much-increased harem of eleven new females!
At this point in the story we were both shocked—how could the peaceful gorillas we saw today have been involved in such brutal conflict?! But a key point is that once this new silverback had the females, none of them left. So according to Eugene this does show that he is a fair and respected leader, because if a female is unhappy she will simply leave the group. So the silverback was named Agusha, and the whole family was named the Agusha Group after him. Over time the family grew even more with several babies born most years, so today they number 25 (the second largest family in the Virungas). Due to all his females already being habituated Agusha also soon came to accept human presence and they settled into a happy routine for a few years.
Then one day, after years of being incognito, the family’s original blackback (now a silverback) returned! He was looking to win back his family and triumph over his grand enemy once and for all. A massive battle ensued, with both contenders taking big hits. There was no way Agusha was letting this younger male take over his hard-won family and he savagely bore down on him, ultimately ripping out one of his eyes from its socket. Half blinded the other silverback ran away, leaving Agusha the king of his group as he remains today.
The injured silverback did eventually recover and managed to form a partnership with a lone female who also had one eye. This shared bond wasn’t enough to keep them together unfortunately and one day she left him for another group. Sad and alone he disappeared and the trackers never saw him again.
So this is the tumultuous and ultimately triumphant story of Agusha, the massive silverback with many sides to his personality; the one who shared a Maori kiss with Scott.
The story begins back when this gorilla family was just called ‘Group 13’, a plain research name. The group consisted of a silverback, a blackback (sub-adult male just a few years off becoming a silverback) two females and two babies. The group lived a peaceful existence until one day the old silverback passed away of natural causes. With no other silverback to take his place as leader the young blackback had to step up, which was an unusual situation. Despite his lack of experience and youth the blackback led his family as best he could, which lasted peacefully for a few months. Then, one afternoon at 2pm in 2003 (Eugene remembers clearly because he was there tracking at the time) an unknown sliverback came charging into their group, scaring the hell out of everyone. The blackback fought valiantly for half an hour to protect his family, but the new silverback was too fierce, too aggressive and had too much fighting experience. The young blackback was driven off, left to his own devices with extensive injuries and he disappeared without a trace.
Not even the trackers had seen this new silverback before and it was obvious he was completely unhabituated to humans—this led everyone to believe that he was one of the very last truly wild gorillas, and must have come across from the Congo. He wasted no time in mating with the females and sadly (but predictably) over the course of a few days killed both the babies. He then took the distraught family on the war path: They travelled to Uganda’s side where he fought a silverback there and stole some of his females, then they travelled to the Congo’s side where he fought more silverbacks and stole a few more females, then he came back to Rwanda and fought again with another habituated group before finally settling into his own territory with his much-increased harem of eleven new females!
At this point in the story we were both shocked—how could the peaceful gorillas we saw today have been involved in such brutal conflict?! But a key point is that once this new silverback had the females, none of them left. So according to Eugene this does show that he is a fair and respected leader, because if a female is unhappy she will simply leave the group. So the silverback was named Agusha, and the whole family was named the Agusha Group after him. Over time the family grew even more with several babies born most years, so today they number 25 (the second largest family in the Virungas). Due to all his females already being habituated Agusha also soon came to accept human presence and they settled into a happy routine for a few years.
Then one day, after years of being incognito, the family’s original blackback (now a silverback) returned! He was looking to win back his family and triumph over his grand enemy once and for all. A massive battle ensued, with both contenders taking big hits. There was no way Agusha was letting this younger male take over his hard-won family and he savagely bore down on him, ultimately ripping out one of his eyes from its socket. Half blinded the other silverback ran away, leaving Agusha the king of his group as he remains today.
The injured silverback did eventually recover and managed to form a partnership with a lone female who also had one eye. This shared bond wasn’t enough to keep them together unfortunately and one day she left him for another group. Sad and alone he disappeared and the trackers never saw him again.
So this is the tumultuous and ultimately triumphant story of Agusha, the massive silverback with many sides to his personality; the one who shared a Maori kiss with Scott.